Chelopek, Okolchitsa, Cherepishki Monastery

Among the hardly accessible pinnacles of the Vratsa Balkan, almost 10 km south of Vratsa and 3 km one from other are situated the picturesque mountain hamlets Pavolche and Chelopek. Except for the beautiful nature and the hospitable people, the region around the villages is a historical site. 10 km up in the mountain are the Okolchitsa peak and the Iolkovitsa hollow, where the famous poet and revolutionary Hristo Botev died in his last battle with the enslaver. The whole territory of the Vratsa Balkan remembers the epic battles of a handful of revolutionaries against the multiple ottoman hordes. Numerous crosses are rising above the rocky peaks, to remind of the heroism and memory of the dedicated fighters for freedom. This magnetic region, filled with history, legends and tales, inspired the great Bulgarian writers Ivan Vazov and Aleko Konstantinov.

A lot of time is needed for a man to travel around and get to know this unique site and the participants on the march “Following the steps of the Boteva detachment”, say that every time they do the march, they rediscover these sites. Even the short time I have planned for my visit to Pavolche, Chelopek, Okolchitsa and the Cherepishki Monastery was enough for me to feel their charm and glamour.

It was early in the morning when I parked on the central square of Chelopek village, in front of “St. Dimitar” church and the house museum of Baba Iliica. The village stays forever in history, because of this woman, who passed a lot of misadventures, to save the life of a survived revolutionary. The story is described in details in the “Edna Bulgarka” tale by Ivan Vazov.

Beautiful national folklore music was floating in the air, which sounded the whole centre. I made my way to the tourism information centre, where the music was coming from, to find out how to reach the sites, I was interested in. For my surprise, I was welcomed not by a clerk, but by a dozen elderly women, the local singers with sweet voices. Before I managed to say whatever, trays with homemade cookies and cheese crackers were placed in front of me and while they persistently invited me to help myself on the table, I learned the whole story of the “Pensioner club” in Chelopek village, for the customs and temperaments of its aging members, for their biggest passion – the performance of national songs, some of which they sang especially for me. I still cannot explain myself, how these women managed to simultaneously sing and talk about their selves, their everyday life, and than finally after 10 minutes and a few cookies, I managed to ask what I was interested in. Shortly afterwards I knew everything in details, where and how to pass and how long will it take me to reach it. After I listened to them a fem moments, the women heartedly sent me off, giving me final directions and advises and of course invited me to visit them once again.

I headed up in the mountain to the historical peak Okolchitsa and 10 minutes later, along the wavering picturesque road I reached 35 metres tall cross, raised on the top in honour of the Boteva detachment and their heroism. In that exact moment children from the Pleven school “Hristo Botev” were gathered in front of the monument, to honour the patron of their school. I looked around the site, where the last battle of the detachment took place, but I only saw, rocks, peaks and flora. Until the present moment a man, who obviously had noted my disorientated look, came to me. It turned out that he is accompanying the group and is a frequent participant in the march “Following the steps of the Boteva division”. That is how I came across to a professional guide by chance. He showed me the site, where the division came, he explained to me, how the soldiers were distributed, the direction from where the Turkish hordes came and how unfair the fight took place. Then he showed me the way to the Iolkovitsa hollow, where Hristo Botev was shot. It was easier for me to imagine the heroic deeds of the rebellions. 200 revolutionaries were exposed on a continuous shooting from all sides, and despite it they managed to hold their positions until the death of their leader.

I wend down to Chelopeck village again and further down the village Pavolche. There are several marvelous guest houses, which offer the ideal relax combined with a beautiful environment. However, I had to continue my way on.

I crossed Chelopek once again and headed to the popular Cherpishki monastery. It is situated around 10 km south of Chelopek and very close to Luti Brod village. I noticed the monastery from the Iskar defile. When I started walking around the holy cloister, I found out why famous artists like Ivan Vazov and Aleko Konstantinov found inspiration for many wonderful literature masterpieces. The Cherepish monastery does not impress with its size and measures. However it offers impressive calmness. I doubt that I can describe this site better than Aleko Konstantinov: “And it is really beautiful; God, how beautiful this Cherepishki monastery is! The curves of the rustling Iskar River, pressed from one side by green and blooming hills, inhabited by sweet voiced nightingales; pressed from the other side by beetling colourful and giant rocks, scattered with caves…” (From the travel notes “In Bulgarian Switzerland”) these words were written more than 100 years аго, but the feeling and the atmosphere in the monastery cannot be affected by time. And even today the rocks are raising, the river melodious warbles and the nightingales echo the whole site.

I cannot miss the Vazov site, to the left from the main church, together with the impressive, a little ominous temple ossuary. It is literally agglutinated for the rocks tower, where the bones of the freedom fighters are gathered. I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that the monastery kitchen is build as a mehana and delicious cuisine is served in the incredible environment. After I was assured by their delicious taste, I started my way back to Sofia in reluctance, but I am sure that I will not only come back here again, but will also stay for a while.

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